NEIPA: Style
Profile
The inspiration
for this column is a recent tweet that I posted (I’m @GordonStrong, by the
way), “This is a FAQ for @BJCP_Official competitions: Enter New England IPA as
21B Specialty IPA. It’s exactly why we created this style.” This tweet was
liked 43 times and retweeted 26 times, which is semi-viral for beer judging
tweets, so I figured that this was a current topic worth addressing.
Perhaps it is a
sign of the times, but contrast that tweet with another one I posted a few
weeks later at a competition, “Judging a New England Cider. Remind me again,
those are the really cloudy ones?” This was clearly a joke, since I was
pointing out the new habit of some to use “New England” as synonymous with
“cloudy” (like “imperial” has been used for “strong”) but not everyone has a
sense of humor. One person responded, “Is there a way to unlike this tweet
since it’s so un-PC.” I’m not sure when beer styles became politically correct,
but I have no interest in mixing politics and beer.
The New England
IPA style showed up on the national beer consumer radar around 2011 when The
Alchemist began canning Heady Topper, but it wasn’t until after the 2015 Beer
Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Guidelines were released that the
style really exploded (at least, outside of New England) and became one of the
most sought after styles. At the time the style guide was being revised we
definitely foresaw continued experimentation and variations of IPAs. The 21B
Specialty IPA style was created to house these new styles, but to be judged
consistently a style description is in the works.
While it still
seems like the style is evolving, it has become popular enough that there is
demand for a competition reference. For those who haven’t tried one of these, a
New England IPA is basically an American IPA that features an intense, mostly
tropical fruit, hop aroma and flavor, is heavily dry hopped to the point of
being hazy, and that has a fuller body, smoother flavor, and less perceived
bitterness than other popular IPA examples.
Commercial
examples are expensive and don’t travel well, so they can be hard to find
outside of New England. Heady Topper is the best known example (and probably
the original), but other good examples include Tree House Julius, Trillium
Congress Street, Hill Farmstead Susan, and Tired Hands Alien Church. They
generally follow the IPA and Double IPA styles for alcohol level, but some
standard-strength versions exist (although they may be labeled as New England
pale ales).
Sensory Profile
The most common
word used in beer enthusiast forums for this style seems to be “juicy,” which
can be somewhat misleading. I can think of several meanings, including “like
juice,” “mouth-watering,” or “wet,” but I think the implication is the sensory equivalent
of eating ripe or over-ripe fruit, especially tropical fruit.
The first thing
you will notice looking at an example of this style is that the beer is quite
hazy. Not cloudy, murky, turbid, milky, or otherwise thick-looking with large
suspended particles; just a somewhat opaque, shiny, light-reflecting haze. The
beer should not look like a yeast starter or a protein shake. The color is
fairly pale (straw to golden), but some examples can have an orange hue. The
opacity of the haze can make the color appear slightly darker than it is. A
dense, white, rocky, persistent head is common as well.
The aroma and
flavor should be dominated by hops, which are quite intense and fresh. The hop
varieties used are commonly associated with ripe or overripe tropical fruit
(mango, passionfruit, guava, pineapple, papaya, etc.), but can also have some
stone fruit (apricot, peach) or citrus (orange, tangerine) character.
Excessively resiny, piney, dank, herbaceous, or grassy characteristics are not
typically found.
The malt
profile is relatively neutral, with grainy or bready flavors commonplace.
Caramel is not typically found, particularly the darker caramel flavors. A
light toasty, honey-like, or biscuity malt flavor can sometimes be found, but
the malt should not interfere with the appreciation of the hops.
The apparent
bitterness level for this style is generally less than traditional IPAs, often
at the moderate level. The bitterness is generally smooth and clean in
character. The finish is soft, and there is rarely a minerally dryness or bite.
The body helps mask some of the bitterness and support the late hop character.
Some of the stronger versions may have a light alcohol character, but as with
other IPAs, this shouldn’t be a hot or burning sensation.
While the beer
is very fruity, it shouldn’t be sugary sweet and heavy from unfermented sugars.
The high ester level may increase the perception of sweetness, as can the
smooth body, soft finish, and lack of harshness. However, the mouthfeel is more
from dextrins than sugars. A high final gravity is not appropriate for the
style as this would negatively impact drinkability.
Ingredients & Methods
This beer style
is hop-driven, but the choice of specific hop varieties and methods used to
extract their best qualities is paramount to the success of the recipe. To get
the tropical fruit character, you’ll have to use modern hop varieties such as
Citra®, Mosaic®, GalaxyTM, Azacca®, El Dorado, or newer experimental varieties
that may only be known by a number. Hop descriptors aren’t standardized, so you
may wish to try small batch experiments before relying too heavily on
expensive, untried varieties.
Hopping methods
should be selected that avoid deriving too much bitterness from the hops while
maximizing the extraction and preservation of positive hop oils. That’s a big
problem since the way you get more of a hoppy character is to add more hops.
Using first wort hopping instead of a traditional boil addition can give a
smoother bitterness and more hop flavor. Omitting traditional boil additions up
until the last 15–20 minutes can reduce harshness extracted from the vegetal
matter in hops.
Adding most of
the hops at the end of the boil, at knockout, or in the whirlpool can retain
more of the hop oils while reducing the bitterness extracted from the hops. One
whirlpool trick is to allow the wort to cool down from the boiling point since
this will reduce the utilization rate of hops. This hasn’t been exactly
determined, but I try to let the temperature reduce to 180 °F (82 °C) or less.
Not all recipe software will calculate this effect properly (some will show
zero utilization of hops added at knockout, for instance), so don’t overdo your
main bittering additions.
Dry hopping is
the biggest driver of hop character in this style. Multiple dry hop additions
add a more complex character. Keep the additions in contact with the beer for a
shorter time frame (2–3 days, perhaps) to focus on the hop oils without getting
too much of the vegetal/grassy character from hops. One area of new research is
dry hopping during active fermentation in the hopes of achieving biotransformation
of the hop oils. This basically means certain hop oils will be transformed by
metabolic pathways of yeast into different chemicals with additional fruity
properties. This phenomenon is not well understood or characterized, so some
amount of trial and error is still being used.
The grist for
this style is relatively simple. Mostly neutral base malt is used, although
some characterful pale ale type base malts may join the party. Caramel flavors
are not desirable, so any crystal type malts should be used with great
restraint and mostly in the paler color range. I leave them out of my recipes,
but that’s the same thing I do with my normal IPAs too. Additional body is
gained through the use of unmalted grains such as flaked wheat and oats. This practice
is becoming more common in modern IPAs, but New England IPAs will use a higher
percentage of these adjuncts. Simple mash programs are commonplace; I would
avoid intensive step mashes since the additional body-building starches in the
adjuncts are desirable.
I have heard of
some recipes using raw starch, fruit purees, and other similar additives in the
attempts to add haze and fruit character. The haze in this style is from the
dry hopping process, not adding raw starch. Fruitiness comes from the hop choices,
techniques, and biotransformation, not adding fruit.
The yeast
selection is a matter open to debate. This style can be made with neutral or
fruity American or English yeast. However, some swear by special strains
derived from some of the well-known commercial producers. These products are
available from some smaller yeast suppliers, such as GigaYeast GY054 Vermont
IPA, Yeast Bay VT Ale Strain, or Omega Yeast Lab OYL-052 DIPA Ale. White Labs
WLP095 (Burlington Ale) and Wyeast 1318 (London III) are also popular.
Nothing special
needs to be done with the yeast, except perhaps allowing it to rise in
temperature towards the end of fermentation to make sure it finishes strong and
reduces any diacetyl present. Using other ester-producing techniques such as underpitching,
using open fermenters, and fermenting warmer are not necessary. Try the
biotransformation technique to see the effect of enhanced fruitiness before
adding any other steps.
The water
profile for this style is another matter open to debate among brewers. Some go
quite heavy on the calcium chloride, which can give the beer a “wet” character.
Some like to use some calcium sulfate to balance the bite. I prefer to go low
on minerals in general, but you can tweak the balance of chloride to sulfate to
help get the character you want. I don’t want the sulfur character from too
much sulfate, so avoid Burtonizing the water. I can see increasing the calcium
sulfate level rather than manipulating mash temperatures as the way to
fine-tune the dryness of the beer.
Homebrew Example
The example I’m
providing below follows the recommendations in this article fairly closely. I
have made American IPAs with the same hops, so I do have a preference for
modern IPAs with a tropical fruit character. But instead of using my normal
Munich malt for a little more body, color, and flavor, I’m using flaked wheat
and oats to give it some extra body. Golden Promise adds a little more malt
interest to the neutral 2-row base malt I chose. A simple infusion mash will
accomplish my goals, so I won’t use anything more involved. I have a preference
for calcium chloride in my water treatments, but I’m adding a touch of calcium
sulfate to give it a slight bite. I certainly don’t want a minerally character
in my beer.
Amarillo® hops
are one of my favorites, and they add a distinctive apricot flavor to the beer.
They are the lowest alpha acid of the hops I’m using so I’ll use them for
bitterness. I’ll save the tropical fruit hops for the late hopping. I’m using
Citra®, which has a mango-guava character, GalaxyTM, which brings the
passionfruit, and Mosaic®, which provides pineapple. Together, they should have
the tropical fruit salad experience I want.
The hop
techniques I’m using are a variation of my normal methods. I frequently use
first wort hopping for a smooth bitterness and hop flavor, so no surprises
there. I’m following this with hop bursting the knockout and whirlpool
additions, including waiting for the whirlpool to cool off enough to minimize
bitterness extraction.
I’m selecting one
of the well-known yeast strains for this style, hoping for some extra
biotransformation of the hop oils. To encourage this, I’m using three equal dry
hop additions, with one of them during active fermentation. I’ll limit the dry
hopping to three days for each addition, taking care to avoid oxygen uptake
during the process. As soon as the last dry hops are pulled, I would keg and
serve as quickly as possible to get the most fresh hop character.
I know the hop
choices are expensive and popular, so they may be hard to find. But if you want
the tropical character to shine, these are your best choices. Freshness of the
hops is important, so make sure they aren’t oxidized before you use them (check
that the hop cones are still green, and the lupulin is yellow not orange).
Recipe
New England IPA
(5 gallons/19
L, all-grain)
OG = 1.061 FG = 1.012
IBU = 56 SRM = 5 ABV = 6.5%
Ingredients
9 lbs. (4.1 kg)
US 2-row malt
2 lbs. (0.91 kg) UK Golden Promise malt
1 lb. (0.45 kg) flaked wheat
12 oz. (340 g) flaked oats
12.9 AAU Amarillo® hops (first wort hop) (1.5 oz./43 g at 8.6% alpha acids)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Amarillo® hops (0 min.)
1 oz. (28 g) Citra® hops (hop stand)
1 oz. (28 g) GalaxyTM hops (hop stand)
1 oz. (28 g) Mosaic® hops (hop stand)
3 oz. (85 g) Citra® hops (dry hop)
1.5 oz. (43 g) GalaxyTM hops (dry hop)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Mosaic® hops (dry hop)
GigaYeast GY054 (Vermont IPA) or White Labs WLP095 (Burlington Ale) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
On brew day,
prepare your ingredients; mill the grains, measure your hops, and prepare your
water. This recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) water. Add 1⁄4 tsp 10% phosphoric
acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing water, or until water measures pH 5.5 at
room temperature. Add 3⁄4 tsp. calcium chloride (CaCl2) and 1⁄4 tsp. calcium
sulfate (CaSO4) to the mash.
On brew day,
mash in all the grains at 152 °F (67 °C) in 5 gallons (19 L) of water, and hold
this temperature for 60 minutes. Raise the temperature by infusion or direct
heating to 168 °F (76 °C) to mashout. Recirculate for 15 minutes. Fly sparge
with 168 °F (76 °C) water until 6.5 gallons (25 L) of wort is collected.
Boil the wort
for 75 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated in the recipe. The first
wort hops are added to the kettle just before lautering begins. The 0 minute
hops get added right after the heat is turned off. Stir the wort gently and
allow to cool to 180 °F (82 °C) then add the hop stand hops. Allow to stand for
20 minutes then chill to 64 °F (18 °C) and rack to the fermenter.
Oxygenate, then
pitch the yeast. Start fermentation at 64 °F (18 °C), allowing temperature to
rise naturally as fermentation progresses. Mix the dry hops and divide into
three equal portions. The first portion gets added after two days of active
fermentation. The second portion gets added at the end of fermentation.
The third
portion gets added three days after fermentation ends. Allow each dry hop
addition to be in contact with the beer for two to three days, then remove.
Rack the beer,
prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.5 volumes. Do not
filter or fine the beer.
New England IPA
(5 gallons/19
L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.061 FG = 1.012
IBU = 56 SRM = 5 ABV = 6.5%
Ingredients
7.2 lbs. (3.3
kg) pale liquid malt extract
1 lb. (454 g) dried wheat or weizen malt extract
12.9 AAU Amarillo® hops (first wort hop) (1.5 oz./43 g at 8.6% alpha acids)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Amarillo® hops (0 min.)
1 oz. (28 g) Citra® hops (hop stand)
1 oz. (28 g) GalaxyTM hops (hop stand)
1 oz. (28 g) Mosaic® hops (hop stand)
3 oz. (85 g) Citra® hops (dry hop)
1.5 oz. (43 g) GalaxyTM hops (dry hop)
1.5 oz. (43 g) Mosaic® hops (dry hop)
GigaYeast GY054 (Vermont IPA) or White Labs WLP095 (Burlington Ale) yeast
3⁄4 cup corn sugar (if priming)
Step by Step
Use 6 gallons
(23 L) of water in the brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C). Add the malt
extracts and stir thoroughly to dissolve the extract completely. You do not
want to feel liquid extract at the bottom of the kettle when stirring with your
spoon. Turn the heat back on and bring to a boil.
Boil the wort
for 60 minutes, adding the hops at times indicated. The first wort hops are
added to the kettle just after the malt extract is dissolved but before
bringing to a boil. The 0 minute hops get added right after the heat is turned
off. Stir the wort gently and allow to cool to 180 °F (82 °C) then add the hop
stand hops. Allow to stand for 20 minutes then chill to 64 °F (18 °C) and rack
to the fermenter.
Oxygenate, then
pitch the yeast. Start fermentation at 64 °F (18 °C), allowing temperature to
rise naturally as fermentation progresses. Mix the dry hops and divide into
three equal portions. The first portion gets added after two days of active
fermentation. The second portion gets added at the end of fermentation. The
third portion gets added three days after fermentation ends. Allow each dry hop
addition to be in contact with the beer for two to three days, then remove.
Rack the beer,
prime and bottle condition, or keg and force carbonate to 2.5 volumes. Do not
filter or fine the beer.
